![]() They also make it easier to execute a consistent step size. One of the big advantages of using manual focusing rails is the avoidance of focus breathing. The final image will only be as large as the smallest layers in the stack. ![]() ![]() Some lenses change their focal length as you shift focus ( focus breathing) and your final image can only be as large as the smallest image in the stack: All images of a stack need to be aligned and resized before stacking. The downside of this technique is that, depending on your lens, it can require a good amount of cropping. The advantage of this technique is that you won’t need any additional equipment besides your camera and a tripod, so this is perfect if you are just starting out and want to get a feel for it. This works best in live-view at full zoom or with focus peaking enabled. When it comes to performing a focus stack there are quite a few ways to do it, so let’s have a look! Option 1: Manually shifting focus The basic idea is to mount your camera on a tripod, compose the shot, and then take a sequence of images while slightly shifting focus between shots. Many landscape photographers like using this method to get both their foreground and far background in focus, but it’s especially useful for macro photography. ![]() When we merge these images in post processing, we produce one overall sharp image where the whole frame is in focus. As the name suggests, focus stacking is a technique where you take multiple photos of the same subject, but at slightly different focusing distances, and “stack” them. ![]()
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